Russia is a country of contrasts—a vast territory rich in natural resources (especially oil and gas), where some are incredibly rich and millions of others are desperately poor. That said, a rising urban middle class is steadily changing the makeup of post-Soviet Russia. When asked what they want for the future, many Russians speak of "having an easier life, being able to buy good things." Their dreams of prosperity are fueled by foreign movies and television programs, a crop of extravagant Russian films and soap operas, commercials that seem to run nonstop and billboards on many a street corner advertising luxury goods. But, for many, even standard material goods remain out of reach. Although the economy is finally recovering from the 1998 devaluation of the ruble, millions don't have access to the country's wealth, while others buy luxurious property abroad.

Today's Russia is often exhilarating, sometimes ominous. Everyday life goes on amid a jumble of trial-and-error capitalism, glitzy casinos, billboard politics, czar mania, slick gangster-hangout restaurants and posh nightclubs. Although the situation differs from that of the 1990s, when both careers and fabulous fortunes were made overnight (and lost as well), most Russians still rely on fortune and fate more than on law, state and order. Some observers have suggested that 15%-20% of Russia's economy is controlled by organized crime. Add to the mix a religious revival: Hundreds of renovated Russian Orthodox churches are offering services in urban centers, and thousands of worshippers make pilgrimages to the country's numerous monasteries and other sacred places.

So far, travelers haven't been affected directly by the country's turmoil or corruption. But conditions are changing so quickly that you should keep a close eye on the news. And you should be aware that despite all the doors that have opened and the greater flow of information, there are still plenty of murky areas in Russia—sudden changes of rules, unexpected shortages and mysterious surcharges. Nevertheless, you'll find that the overall quality of hotels, restaurants and services—although wildly variable—is improving, many on par with western European institutions.

In any case, travelers should be flexible, tolerant and patient—and aware of risks. Russia can be both an enthralling adventure and a tiring ordeal. For those willing to endure the risks and inconveniences, Russia is simply a fascinating place—from the imperial beauty of Moscow and St. Petersburg to the bleakly romantic Siberian countryside.

Landmarks of Russia's rich cultural heritage include the Red Place, the Kremlin and the Bolshoi Theater in Moscow, the Winter Palace and the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, the old Kremlin of Novgorod, the myriad of onion domed churches and colorful old wooden houses of the monastic "Golden Ring" towns around Moscow.

Stalinist monuments still "grace" most cities, but the dictator also gave Moscow and St. Petersburg its first bombastic metro stations, a riot of marble, socialist paintings and chandeliers. Russia's two megacities are a sight to behold: Snow-covered Moscow in winter and the luminescent White Nights of St. Petersburg in summer are lasting memories.

But Russia's natural diversity is even greater. From the endless horizons of Karelia with its thousands of lakes to the towering snowy mountains of the Caucasus and the green slopes of the Altai near Mongolia: Russia has it all. Lake Baikal is located right in the middle of the dreamy Siberian taiga, a prime hiking area. The Kamchatka peninsula is a fascinating volcano wilderness and a paradise for ambitious sport fishers. The Siberian tiger still roams the remote areas of the Amur region in the Far East, while the Black Sea resorts sport a lush subtropical nature and an almost tropical nightlife. The placid Volga delta has birds of a different kind, and if you want to experience Mother Russia at her best, book a cruise on the Volga, Ob or Jenisei rivers.

We think most first-timers will be happiest seeing Russia on an escorted tour. Even though a tour will not ensure a hassle-free trip, at least someone else (the tour guide) will be dealing with any problems encountered along the way. Independent travel is a real adventure. We wouldn't actively discourage anyone from attempting it. Just keep in mind that generous supplies of time, money and patience will help smooth the way. The itinerary below is constructed to give the first-time visitor a quick overview.

There's a little less time in each location than is optimum, so if it's possible to add a few days here and there, do so.
Days 1-3—Moscow.
Day 4—Moscow. Night train to St. Petersburg.
Days 5 and 6—St. Petersburg.
Day 7—Day trip to one or two of the summer palaces near St. Petersburg.
Day 8—Depart Russia.
If two weeks are available, we suggest the following:
Days 1-3—Moscow.
Day 4—Drive first to Vladimir, then Suzdal. Overnight in Suzdal.
Day 5—Suzdal.
Day 6—Return to Moscow. Night train to St. Petersburg.
Days 7 and 8—St. Petersburg.
Days 9 and 10—Day trips to the summer palaces near St. Petersburg.
Day 11—Drive or take the train to Novgorod. Overnight.
Day 12—Novgorod.
Day 13—Return to St. Petersburg.
Day 14—Depart Russia.

Those who want to see more of the country should include a Volga or Don river cruise after Moscow. With more time, a trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway (with a stop in Irkutsk and an excursion to Lake Baikal) is recommended, or add a few hiking days in the beautiful Caucasus Mountains.