If you think of the Netherlands solely as a tranquil still life by Vermeer, you may be in for a surprise. We'll admit that much of its countryside, with cows grazing in fields near canals and old windmills, does suggest the timeless serenity captured by so many Dutch painters, but in its cities you'll find a more unexpected sort of harmony—one that balances tidy traditional architecture with a very modern point of view. Amsterdam, for example, has lovely gabled houses, priceless paintings and cheery, multilingual people. It also has coffee shops selling cannabis and window prostitutes touting their wares. The Dutch are nothing if not practical about sensual needs and desires, and the Netherlands is as well-known for its tolerance as for its tulips.

The Netherlands is small—its length can be driven in one day. Nevertheless, there's a lot to see, and we recommend a minimum of eight days there.

Day 1—Arrive Amsterdam.
Day 2—Amsterdam.
Day 3—In the morning, visit the Aalsmeer Flower Market and get a feel for the Netherlands' lucrative and vibrant flower business. In the afternoon, take in more of Amsterdam's sights, perhaps stopping in at a traditional neighborhood Dutch bar, called a "brown cafe."
Day 4—If you visit the Netherlands sometime between late March and late May, don't miss the gorgeous gardens at the Keukenhof, just 20 mi/35 km from Amsterdam. Otherwise, take a train to the charming town of Haarlem.
Day 5—Drive to The Hague via Leiden and Delft.
Day 6—The Hague.
Day 7—Drive to Amsterdam with a stop in Gouda to visit St. John's church, the Stadshuis and the Weighing House, as well as Utrecht to see the Dom Toren, the Rietveld-Schroderhuis and the Centraal museum. Children visiting Utrecht will love the Dick Bruna house.
Day 8—Depart the Netherlands.

An ideal itinerary would be lengthened to 14 days, including another day in Amsterdam, three days in the Wadden Islands and two days in the southeastern part of the country.

The broad plaza outside Centraal Station is a good place to begin a tour—you're likely to end up there anyway at some point during your stay. A walk down Damrak will take you to Dam Square, site of the Royal Palace and National Monument. If you turn toward the National Monument and continue walking, you'll end up in the colorful Red-Light District. This is the oldest part of the city and a neighborhood where quaintness mingles with sex. From there, you can make your way north to the Oude Kerk, the city's oldest church, or continue walking to the southeast and see the Rembrandthuis, the Portuguese Israeli Synagogue and the Jewish Historical Museum.
If you turn toward the Royal Palace at Dam Square and keep walking, you'll be headed in the general direction of the Anne Frank House on Prinsengracht. Also nearby is the Westerkerk, where Rembrandt is buried. The Jordaan, one of Amsterdam's most picturesque districts, is just beyond Prinsengracht. Other areas worth exploring are around Leidseplein and Muntplein, near the Flower Market.
Museum-wise, Amsterdam offers a wide range of institutions documenting everything from the city's highest cultural achievements to its seediest underpinnings. The must-see museum is the Rijksmuseum. The Philips wing is open and all the famous old-master paintings are on display, including The Night Watch by Rembrandt. Nearby is the excellent Van Gogh Museum.

Facts to know before your field trip.
Passport/Visa Requirements: A passport, but not a visa, is required for citizens of Canada and the U.S. Passports must be valid for three months following your return. All travelers should have proof of onward passage. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.

Population: 1,031,000.
Languages: Dutch. English is widely spoken—it's taught in the schools.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Dutch Reformed), Jewish and Islamic, though many other religions are represented.
Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the end of March to the end of October.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 31, country code; 20, city code; 06, mobile numbers;